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Food and Culture food and culture The classic book that helped to defi ne and legitimize the fi eld of food and culture studies is now available, with major revisions, in an affordable e-book version (978-0- 203-07975-1). The third edition includes forty original essays and reprints of previously published classics under fi ve Sections: Foundations; Hegemony and Difference; Consumption and Embodiment; Food and Globalization ; and Challenging, Contesting, and Transforming the Food System. Seventeen of the forty chapters included are either new to this edition, rewritten by their original authors, or edited by Counihan and Van Esterik. A bank of test items applicable to each article in the book is available to instructors interested in selecting this edition for course use. Simply send an email to the pub- lisher at
[email protected]. Carole Counihan is Professor Emerita of Anthropology at Millersville University in Pennsylvania and editor-in-chief of Food and Foodways . Her earlier books include Around the Tuscan Table: Food, Family, and Gender in Twentieth-Century Florence , Food in the USA , and The Anthropology of Food and Body: Gender, Meaning, and Power . Penny Van Esterik is Professor of Anthropology at York University in Toronto, Canada, where she teaches nutritional anthropology, in addition to doing research on food and globalization in Southeast Asia. She is a founding member of WABA (World Alliance for Breastfeeding Action) and writes on infant and young child feeding, including her earlier book, Beyond the Breast-Bottle Controversy . food and culture a reader third edition edited by carole counihan and penny van esterik First published 2013 by Routledge 711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 Simultaneously published in the UK by Routledge 2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN Routledge is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business © 2013 Taylor & Francis The right of the editors to be identifi ed as the authors of the editorial material, and of the authors for their individual chapters, has been asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers. Trademark notice : Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identifi cation and explanation without intent to infringe. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Food and culture : a reader / edited by Carole Counihan and Penny Van Esterik. – 3rd ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. 1. Food–Social aspects. 2. Food habits. I. Counihan, Carole, 1948- II. Van Esterik, Penny. GT2850.F64 2012 394.1'2–dc23 2012021989 ISBN: 978-0-415-52103-1 (hbk) ISBN: 978-0-415-52104-8 (pbk) ISBN: 978-0-203-07975-1 (ebk) Typeset in Minion by Cenveo Publisher Services, Bangalore Contents Foreword from The Gastronomical Me , M.F.K. Fisher xi Preface to the Third Edition xii Acknowledgments xiii Why Food? Why Culture? Why Now? Introduction to the Third Edition 1 Carole Counihan and Penny Van Esterik Foundations 1. Why Do We Overeat? 19 Margaret Mead This piece questions attitudes towards food and eating in a world where food is overabundant and we face the ambiguity of overindulgence and guilt. 2. Toward a Psychosociology of Contemporary Food Consumption 23 Roland Barthes Barthes explains how food acts as a system of communication and provides a body of images that mark eating situations. 3. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste 31 Pierre Bourdieu (tr. Richard Nice) Bourdieu addresses differences between taste of luxury and taste of necessity through his theory of class distinction. 4. The Culinary Triangle 40 Claude Lévi-Strauss This classic structuralist statement, often critiqued, shows how food preparation can be analyzed as a triangular semantic fi eld, much like language. 5. The Abominations of Leviticus 48 Mary Douglas Douglas applies structural analysis to the establishment of Jewish dietary rules as a means to develop self-control, distinction, and a sense of belonging based on the construction of holiness. vi Contents 6. The Abominable Pig 59 Marvin Harris Materialists like Harris reject symbolic and structuralist explanations and explain food prohibitions based on economic and ecological utility. 7. Industrial Food: Towards the Development of a World Cuisine 72 Jack Goody The early industrialization of food processing was made possible by advancements in preservation, mechanization, marketing, and transport of food items. These advances also separated urban and rural societies from food manufacturing. 8. Time, Sugar, and Sweetness 91 Sidney W. Mintz Colonialism made high-status sugar produced in the Caribbean into a working class staple. Hegemony and Difference: Race, Class, and Gender 9. More than Just the “Big Piece of Chicken”: The Power of Race, Class, and Food in American Consciousness 107 Psyche Williams-Forson Ethnographic, historical, and literary research reveals not only controlling and damaging stereotypes about African Americans and chicken but also the ways Black women have used chicken as a form of resistance and community survival. 10. The Overcooked and Underdone: Masculinities in Japanese Food Programming 119 T.J.M. Holden Cooking shows featuring male chefs predominate on Japanese television and propagate one-dimensional defi nitions of masculinity based on power, authority, and ownership of consumer commodities. 11. Domestic Divo? Televised Treatments of Masculinity, Femininity, and Food 137 Rebecca Swenson The programs of The Food Network manifest gender stereotypes while also providing an avenue for challenging ideas of male and female roles regarding food. 12. Japanese Mothers and Obento-s: The Lunch-Box as Ideological State Apparatus 154 Anne Allison Japanese mothers, in preparing elaborate lunch-boxes for their preschool children, reproduce state ideologies of power. Contents vii 13. Mexicanas’ Food Voice and Differential Consciousness in the San Luis Valley of Colorado 173 Carole Counihan Food-centered life histories portray the voices and perspectives of traditionally muted Hispanic women of rural southern Colorado whose food stories reveal differential behaviors and consciousness which promote empowerment. 14. Feeding Lesbigay Families 187 Christopher Carrington Because feeding work is complex, laborious, and highly gendered, it is problematic in lesbigay families because a full accounting of it would destroy illusions of equality and call into question masculinity of gay men who do it and femininity of lesbians who do not. 15. Thinking Race Through Corporeal Feminist Theory: Divisions and Intimacies at the Minneapolis Farmers’ Market 211 Rachel Slocum By applying feminist materialist theory, Slocum analyses the embodiment of race and its manifestations through food practices and behavior displayed at the farmers’ market. 16. The Raw and the Rotten: Punk Cuisine 231 Dylan Clark Punk cuisine — based on scavenged, rotten, and/or stolen food — challenges the hierarchy, commodifi cation, toxicity, and environmental destruction of the capitalist food system. Consumption and Embodiment 17. Fast, Feast, and Flesh: The Religious Signifi cance of Food to Medieval Women 245 Caroline Walker Bynum Medieval women used food for personal religious expression, including giving food away, exuding foods from their bodies, and undertaking fasts to gain religious and cultural power. 18. Not Just “a White Girl’s Thing”: The Changing Face of Food and Body Image Problems 265 Susan Bordo Bordo argues that eating disorders and body image issues are created through social and media pressures that target all women regardless of race or class. 19. De-medicalizing Anorexia: Opening a New Dialogue 276 Richard A. O’Connor This paper offers a biocultural approach to anorexia that stresses how young people obsess not over beauty but over an ascetic search for self-control. viii Contents 20. Feeding Hard Bodies: Food and Masculinities in Men’s Fitness Magazines 284 Fabio Parasecoli Men’s fi tness magazines defi ne masculinity through discussions of food and body, increasingly involving men in concerns about constructing corporeal perfection and regulating consumption to build muscle and strength. 21. Cooking Skills, the Senses, and Memory: The Fate of Practical Knowledge 299 David Sutton Practical knowledge of food preparation is an embodied skill that uses all the senses. Standardization of modern food practices affects the social dimensions of this type of experiential learning. 22. Not “From Scratch”: Thai Food Systems and “Public Eating” 320 Gisèle Yasmeen The urban phenomenon of public eating in Thailand is a refl ection of changes in gender, labor, and household dynamics in a (post)industrial food system. 23. Rooting Out the Causes of Disease: Why Diabetes is So Common Among Desert Dwellers 330 Gary Paul Nabhan Skyrocketing type two diabetes among desert dwelling Seri Indians of Northern Mexico suggests that changes in diet have caused this major health problem and that traditional desert foods — especially legumes,