For the barred beach profile shown in Figure 5.20, suppose that the wave height is limited by the spilling breaker assumption. For an initial breaking wave height of 3 m, (a) Plot the setup...

For the barred beach profile shown in Figure 5.20, suppose that the wave height is limited by the spilling breaker assumption. For an initial breaking wave height of 3 m,

(a) Plot the setup distributionacross the surf zone qualitatively. Describe principal differences between the results for the barred beach profile and those for a monotonic beach profile.

(b) Plot the longshore current distribution across the surf zone qualitatively for waves arriving at an angle. Describe principal differences between the results for the barred beach profile and those for the monotonic beach profile.

Figure 5.20